aerial view of the Amazon river

Current Issue

Fashion in the Americas

Fall 2024, Volume XXIV, Number 1

Cover Image courtesy of Mary Isabel Buenaventura. Digitally modified using Refashion.

Table of Contents

Editor’s Letter →

by June Carolyn Erlick

Fashioning the Environment

Exploring the Past

The Inca Emperor’s New Clothes

The Inca Emperor’s New Clothes

Fashion is a relatively modern concept, most often associated with Euro-American histories of dress. However, well before the European invasions of the Americas, Indigenous American societies developed sophisticated approaches to garment making and cultural attention to dress every bit as nuanced as those of societies from the other side of the Atlantic. Perhaps the greatest material legacy of this rich costume history survives in the Andes region of South America.

Unsubmissive Images

Unsubmissive Images

Hemetério José dos Santos (1858-1939), a Black grammarian and teacher at Rio de Janeiro’s most important schools suffered racist attacks in the press because of the way he dressed.

Behind the Veil

Behind the Veil

From Victorian-era hats to contemporary veils, the transnational historical evolution of women’s head coverings both reflects fashion and creates it.

Identities and Beyond

Black Is a Working-Class Color: The Latinx Politics of Wearing Black

Black Is a Working-Class Color: The Latinx Politics of Wearing Black

In his memoir book Solito, the celebrated Latinx writer Javier Zamora recuperates his story as an unaccompanied Salvadoran nine-year-old migrating to the United States. He takes the reader across several borders and the journey’s many difficulties, fears and small triumphs, as he struggles to reunite with his parents in the United States. One of the details that caught my attention was Zamora’s attentiveness to the dressed migrant body in darker, mostly black, clothing.

Fashion Voices, Fashion Perspectives

Celebrating Latin American Culture Through Fashion: OjaLáb MarketFest

Celebrating Latin American Culture Through Fashion: OjaLáb MarketFest

Designers from Chile, Ecuador, Peru, Colombia, and Argentina showcased 23 curated brands to enthusiastic and curious visitors at the inaugural OjaLáb MarketFest. The event focused on fashion, accessories and home goods, all chosen for their ethical production practices, local sourcing, high-quality standards and the unique narratives behind each collection.

Making Fashion

The Summer of Craft

The Summer of Craft

So called Panama hats were once a highlight of Ecuadorian, Peruvian and Colombian exports, but today, baskets made from the same material—iraca or toquilla straw (Carludovica palmata)—are the trendiest accessories.

Book Reviews

A Review of The Sandinista Revolution: A Global Latin American History

A Review of The Sandinista Revolution: A Global Latin American History

One afternoon in 2014, driving along a dirt road that snaked through countryside several hours outside of the Nicaraguan capital of Managua, I came across an ancient woman on foot, carrying a load of firewood on her back. I pulled up alongside her and asked her if she wanted a lift. She didn’t seem to comprehend at first, whereupon I explained that was offering her a ride to her destination. She smiled and shook her head. She would carry on walking, she said, but said that if I had some alms—she used that term, limosna, in Spanish—she’d accept them.

A Review of The Brazil Chronicles

A Review of The Brazil Chronicles

In the late 1940s, a young aspiring journalist Stephen G. Bloom was having trouble finding work at any stateside newspaper. After a stint at his college newspaper, the University of California Daily Californian, Bloom worked as a waiter at a Berkeley eatery, got arrested in Canada with his girlfriend for trying to bring pot across the border and got turned down for a reporter’s job by a raft of newspapers. The opportunity came up for a vague promise of a job in the Brazilian English-language language newspaper the Brazil Herald.

A Review of The Two Faces of Fear: Violence and Inequality in the Mexican Metropolis

A Review of The Two Faces of Fear: Violence and Inequality in the Mexican Metropolis

On March 19, 2010, two graduate students at the Tec de Monterrey, Jorge Antonio Mercado Alonso and Javier Francisco Arredondo Verdugo, were killed by members of the Mexican Army inside the university campus. To cover up the murder, the Army and Mexican authorities initially claimed the victims were armed sicarios—hitmen— with organized crime connections. An investigation later revealed that Jorge and Javier were engineering students who did not belong to any criminal group and were unarmed when the perpetrators shot them.

A Review of Mesquite Pods to Mescal: 10,000 Years of Oaxacan Cuisines

A Review of Mesquite Pods to Mescal: 10,000 Years of Oaxacan Cuisines

Mexican culinary nationalists have enshrined Oaxaca as the “land of seven moles,” the diverse chile stews that provide an Indigenous counterpoint to the supposed cradle of creole gastronomy, Puebla, with its chile and chocolate centerpiece, mole poblano. Although the count of seven moles is an invented tradition, Oaxaca’s culinary roots indeed reach deep into the past, as is shown by the essays in this splendid collection. The volume also effectively illustrates the advances of the archaeological study of food, from an early focus on the processes of domestication and subsistence regimes.

A Review of Trippy: The Peril and Promise of Medicinal Psychedelics

A Review of Trippy: The Peril and Promise of Medicinal Psychedelics

At a recent Harvard Petrie-Flom Center event, Law and Policy of Psychedelic Medicine, author Ayelet Waldman offered a nuanced perspective on microdosing and government policy. I asked her how we could incorporate understandings of Indigenous cosmologies into our practices of understanding psychedelic integration both in clinical and non-clinical settings. She emphasized the importance of agency, arguing that Indigenous peoples who hold these lineages sacred should lead the conversation.

A Review of From Peril to Partnership: US Security Assistance and the Bid to Stabilize Colombia and Mexico

A Review of From Peril to Partnership: US Security Assistance and the Bid to Stabilize Colombia and Mexico

Oxford University Press, in collaboration with The Council on Foreign Relations, published Paul J. Angelo’s much-anticipated monograph in March 2024. The book is a comparative study, focusing on U.S. security policy to two countries in Latin America at roughly the same period, i.e. during the first fifth of the 21st century. From Peril to Partnership represents a nearly 20-year focus by the author on Latin America in general, Colombia and Mexico, specifically.

A Review of Everyone Who is Gone is Here: The United States, Central America, and the Making of a Crisis

A Review of Everyone Who is Gone is Here: The United States, Central America, and the Making of a Crisis

Jonathan Blitzer’s well-written and evocative book, Everyone Who is Gone is Here, has been hailed as a must-read on the U.S. current immigration emergency. In my opinion, it’s not.
In fact, it’s more about the emergency that occurred a generation or more ago, when civil wars across Central America dominated Cold War news coverage and spilled over into bitter battles between Democrats and Republicans in Congress. That war still exists, and polemics about immigration and an “unsecure” border are among the weaponry.

A Review of Divino e infame. Las identidades de Rubén Darío

A Review of Divino e infame. Las identidades de Rubén Darío

Fresh insight into seemingly exhausted topics often comes from unexpected places. Luís Cláudio Villafañe’s biographical account of Nicaraguan poet Rubén Darío (1867-1916), one of Latin America’s most influential and well-known artists, may serve as an illuminating case in point.
Instead of enlarging the already incommensurable literature on the subject with a specialized monograph or yet another mythologizing account, Villafañe chose to gather, digest and put in order all the existing material on the so-called “Prince of Spanish Letters” and produce a concise, much-needed retelling of his extraordinary life and times.

A Review of Disoriented Disciplines: China, Latin America, and the Shape of World Literature

A Review of Disoriented Disciplines: China, Latin America, and the Shape of World Literature

With this fascinating and theoretically sound study, Rosario Hubert has produced a key text not only in Asia-Latin American studies, but also in Latin American studies and Asian studies. In Disoriented Disciplines: China, Latin America, and the Shape of World Literature, she explores, from the theoretical perspectives of world literature and cosmopolitanism, not so much how Latin American authors have mimetically represented China in their works but, rather, how their own misreadings (hence, the “disoriented” in the title of the book) of Chinese culture allowed them to reconsider world literature and join global cross-cultural debates.

A Review of Legacy of Lies: El Salvador 1981-1984

A Review of Legacy of Lies: El Salvador 1981-1984

During most of the 1980s I lived in Managua, Nicaragua, as a photojournalist for Newsweek magazine. I had covered the 1979 Sandinista Revolution that sent shockwaves through Washington because Nicaragua “lost” a staunch ally against Communism. Central America had become the final battleground of the Cold War, and Washington was not about to lose another Vietnam.

A Review of A New No-Man’s Land: Writing and Art at Guantánamo, Cuba

A Review of A New No-Man’s Land: Writing and Art at Guantánamo, Cuba

Guantánamo/GTMO: Cuba’s easternmost province, occupied territory, U.S. military base, prison, refuge, natural habitat, torture site, symbol, legal exception and geographical reference of the famous “Guajira guantanamera” song. Esther Whitfield’s book gathers an unprecedented cultural archive exploring many Guantánamos. It reveals how the stories we tell about Guantánamo—and just as importantly, the ones we do not—pattern a global, political experience of the present.

A Review of Venezuela’s Collapse – The Long Story of How Things Fell Apart

A Review of Venezuela’s Collapse – The Long Story of How Things Fell Apart

On July 28, the Venezuelans will hopefully have the opportunity to elect a new president. Twenty-five years after President Hugo Chávez came to power, very few of them are said to freely support his successor Nicolas Maduro and their movement, as the state of the economy and the political system has so severely undermined the people’s ability to live dignified lives.

A Review of A Body of One’s Own: A Trans History of Argentina

A Review of A Body of One’s Own: A Trans History of Argentina

I received my copy of A Body of One’s Own just a few months into the chaotic Milei presidential administration in Argentina. This meant that I was reading Patricio Simonetto’s excellent book on trans and travesti history, citizenship and embodiment in 20th century Argentina as the manosphere’s latest darling was banning gender-inclusive language, rallying to recriminalize abortion, gutting health and social services and dissolving government agencies.

A Review of Right-Wing Populism in Latin America and Beyond

A Review of Right-Wing Populism in Latin America and Beyond

Scholars of populism in Latin America for much of the period of “the pink tide” in the region during the 2000s and early 2010s associated populism with governments of the left. Presidents such as Hugo Chávez (Venezuela), Evo Morales (Bolivia), Néstor and Cristina Kirchner (Argentina) and Rafael Correa (Ecuador) were prime examples of presidents who employed populist tactics and performances in their governing.

A Review of Exit Wounds: How America’s Guns Fuel Violence Across the Border

A Review of Exit Wounds: How America’s Guns Fuel Violence Across the Border

Of the millions of firearms produced in the United States annually, tens or perhaps hundreds of thousands are smuggled south to Mexico, Brown University professor Ieva Jusionyte writes in Exit Wounds: How America’s Guns Fuel Violence Across the Border. In the seven years she spent researching and writing the book, Jusionyte calculates that more than a million guns may have been trafficked into Mexico from the United States.

Subscribe
to the
Newsletter