About the Author
Vivian Fernández graduated from Harvard College in 2018 as a government concentrator and with a DRCLAS Latin American Studies Certificate. She often travels to Bolivia and received a DRCLAS independent internship grant to travel there during Summer of 2015. She is currently working as a paralegal for Cravath, Swaine & Moore in NYC.
The Bolivian Middle Class
These series of photographs, all shot in the city of La Paz, Bolivia help to shed light on the manner and quality in which the middle and upper class of Bolivia live. El Mercado Roberto Rodriguez is La Paz’s largest food market, and it is here that many of the city’s middle-class acquire their food. Here you can find caseras (vendors) selling a variety of foods: mounds of orange mandarin oranges, heaps of green beans, bunches of broccoli and cauliflower, fishes ranging in size and various types of meat. Buyers walk around talking to vendors, asking for their yapita (bonus/addition to their purchase) before placing their purchases in huge plastic tote bags and wandering off to the next stall. While this market is open the entire week, its busiest days are Saturdays and Sundays when most people come to do their weekly purchases.
The neighborhoods of Obrajes, San Miguel and Achumani are all very well off and have become major commercial and financial sectors in addition to being residential areas. Banks, businesses, shops, malls and international firms are now common sights in these neighborhoods. New constructions can also be seen quite frequently, especially in Achumani where apartment buildings and mansions are being built on vast areas of property. The urbanization that La Paz has undergone can further be seen through the project “Mi Teleférico,” an aerial cable car system that officially started working in 2014. It currently has 3 functioning lines: yellow, red and green, with plans for more operating lines in the works. Not only does it help to connect various neighborhoods and alleviates the previous public transportation congestion, it also offers beautiful views of the city of La Paz.
Click here to view these photos in media gallery form
** Note: This photoessay was written in Summer of 2015. As of the date of publication, “Mi Teleferico” has expanded to include 10 functioning lines (Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, Orange, White, Sky Blue, Purple, Brown and Silver) with an additional line (Gold) in the works.
If you liked this article, click here to read related articles from our issue on Bolivia!
More Student Views
Public Universities in Peru
Visits to two public universities in Peru over the last two summers helped deepen my understanding of the system and explore some ideas for my own research. The first summer, I began visiting the National University of San Marcos (UNMSM) to learn about historical admissions processes and search for lists of applicants and admitted students. I wanted to identify those students and follow their educational, professional and political trajectories at one of the country’s most important universities. In the summer of 2025, I once again visited UNMSM in Lima and traveled to Cusco to visit the National University of San Antonio Abad del Cusco (UNSAAC). This time, I conducted interviews with professors and student representatives to learn about their experiences and perspectives on higher-education policies such as faculty salary reforms and the processes for the hiring and promotion of professors.
Post-Secondary Education Access in Peru
Over the summer, I visited four public schools in Peru located in two regions, about 1,200 miles apart from each other. I interviewed teachers, principals and high school juniors and seniors. I wanted to discover their perspectives on perceived opportunities and barriers for students to plan for and fulfill their higher education goals. I also interviewed the superintendent at each school district to learn about local initiatives aimed at decreasing barriers to higher education transition.
The Opacity of Cuba’s La Habana Vieja
On a recent trip to Havana, two fellow visitors reminded me what it feels like to encounter the Cuban city for the first time and to become enamored with its paradoxes. The first, a young Kansan woman in my Airbnb, learning that I study Cuban architecture and urbanism, expressed a familiar curiosity about the dramatic contrast between austere 19th century mansions, colonial palaces and the surrounding blocks of ruinous buildings. The second, a Berliner, shared ceviche with me on a restaurant balcony overlooking a street bustling with tourists and art vendors. He pointed out with a laugh that our utensils came from Air France first class.
